What Is Houndstooth? A Guide to the Classic Textile Pattern

Houndstooth is not just a print but a staple item in the wardrobe that can help anyone answer the questions they have when they want to stand out but when they also want to avoid compromising out of having to compromise on classic style. This design started its life as a heavyweight Scottish wool in its brash tooth-like checks and chameleonic black and white foundation and has become catwalk-ready fashion.

Are you bored with your old cloths and want to update your wardrobe with a clean houndstooth coat, or want to know the massive history of the design? Discover how it all started and why it suits everyone: in business wear, in street fashion and how you can flaunt it with pride today.

Houndstooth Pattern Explained

The houndstooth pattern is a 2-colour cloth design made up of a broken check or 4-pointed structure, which can be in the shape of jagged teeth of a dog or the tooth of a hound.
It is typically woven in black and white, and is usually made in wool or wool-blend yarns, and the effect is achieved through the use of a twill weave that creates the overlapping of the dark colors of the weave over the light colors to give the jagged, staggered pattern.

This classic design has been adapted with the modern fashion, where new color schemes such as green and purple are present, but still carrying the old black-and-white tradition. The beauty of the pattern is that it is both bold and structured, and is common in houndstooth jackets, suits, skirts and scarves. These clothes provide an elegant appearance, which can be used to add some visual accent to casual and formal wear.

History of Houndstooth

The houndstooth cloth can be traced as far back as the 19th century of Scotland, when it was mostly woven by the shepherds in Scotland with wool. The check pattern, initially being utilitarian, gained popularity in no time because of the durability and unique design. It was a sturdy fabric that could put up with rough weather while giving visual interest.

By the middle of the 20th  century, houndstooth became an element of fashion houses, like Dior and Chanel, which used it due to its eternal elegance. It became a fashion of high fashion, which was worn by icons, who cemented its status as one of the pillars of fashion history. Since punk riots and preppy business attire, houndstooth has never stopped being reinvented throughout the decades.

Houndstooth vs Dogtooth Pattern

A lot of people are curious about the difference between houndstooth and dogtooth patterns. Although the two designs are from the same weaving pattern, they differ in size and purpose, altering the effect they produce on an outfit.

Houndstooth

Houndstooth is more dramatic and tend to be woven with high contrast coloring e.g. black and white or brown and cream. They are also tooth-like in shape and resemble a dog’s tooth; therefore, the pattern is very recognizable and is perfect to be used as a striking fashion statement.
The larger design is traditionally produced with a twill weave, and was generally made in heavier wool fabrics, but more recently can also be found in lighter blends which can be worn year round.

These theater plays are tremendous on statement coats (big coats, houndstooth jackets and structured blazers). Examples of this include a houndstooth overcoat and solid black trousers to underline the graphic nature of the pattern, yet stay with a slim silhouette.
To add to this timeless style, a hint of color, a purple or green accessory, can be added to add a new twist to the same old style. Whether adorned more traditionally or with a modern edge, big houndstooth checks are certainly a sure fire way of introducing some style and aesthetic panache to any outfit.

Dogtooth

The effect of sophistication can be achieved with a more delicate and slender houndstooth which is sometimes referred to as dogtooth, puppytooth or little houndstooth. They also use the same twill weave, but this can be tightly woven with a small size in comparison to the conventional houndstooth. It is especially adapted to snug dresses, of a high fashion, when a demure disposition is wanted.

It goes perfectly well with formal attire, where the most important aspects are grace and restraint. To give an example, an outfit like a gray dogtooth suit characterized with its muted pattern and texture weave can give depth to an outfit without washing it out and is therefore a perfect business meeting or formal event outfit option, or even regular wear.

Designers usually prefer using dogtooth pattern fabric to make suits, trousers or pencil skirts that require a classic look with the twist of modernity. Whether black and white or charcoal or more understated, browns and greens, dogtooth is a smooth selection that bridges the gap between the classic and modern-day tailoring.

What Is Houndstooth Fabric?

Houndstooth fabric is usually made from wool, but the modern versions are made from cotton, polyester, synthetic blends. These materials allow designers to control the weight of the fabric and the texture so that it can be used in different seasons and in different types of garments.

Woven Texture

The twill weave is the backbone of houndstooth fabric, as it is the weave that makes the fabric look like a broken check pattern that is its iconic appearance. The process is similar to the weaving of the fabric, but the difference is that the weft and warp threads are interlaced in such a way that the fabric acquires a specific texture and visual richness in the form of a diagonal pattern.
It is the contrast of light and dark threads in the twill weave that gives the impression of jagged edges or abstract shapes that are hallmarks of the houndstooth pattern.

Twill weave is essential because it is not only aesthetic, but also structural. It makes the fabric more resistant to wear and tear, comfortable and durable when used on a daily basis. In clothes like jackets, suits and coats, where the drape and the ability to retain their shape is vital, it is essential. Along with the lack of support that twill offers, the iconic pattern may become less sharp, and the material itself would be easily deformed.

Durability

The houndstooth fabric, in particular, the wool houndstooth fabric, is renowned for being very durable. Wool fibers can provide a natural elastic and strength, assisting the garment to maintain its shape as time goes on, even when the garment is often worn.
This gives woolen-based houndstooth a preference in products that require it to have a high degree of performance like winter coats, fitted suits, and accessories like scarves and store hats.

Besides the clothing, the fabric is strong and has an appealing texture that makes it a favorite in home and commercial furniture. It is very fraying and sag-free, which means furniture with houndstooth will look sharp years after. Such a mixture of robustness and aesthetics allows houndstooth to meet the casualness gap between style which helps adjust functionality and care.

Shades and Colors

Although traditional houndstooth is best known in a black-and-white color scheme, there have been other more modern forms and adaptations that are now encompassing a much wider range of colors.
Those pattern makers today have added rich colors such as deep purples, earth tones, warm browns, even pastels to make the pattern look new, modern. The new models enable users to achieve individuality and stay connected with a classicline of textiles.

Houndstooth is also versatile when it comes to different seasons and environments due to this color variation. The different color tones can be worn and make a statement when used in a professional wardrobe, or neutrally match what one already owns. The versatility of these bespoke shades is such that houndstooth is current, fashionable and versatile across the current multifaceted fashion world.

Styling a Houndstooth Jacket

Houndstooth jacket is a staple piece of fashion that is a mix of timeless fashion combined with strong visual texture. It is a pit stop for individuals who have aspirations to be chic, yet not lose their individuality.

• Use Solid Colors: A great way to use this is through a houndstooth blazer in black and white which, works well with a cream blouse and black denim jeans to give the outfit an even balance of sophistication and a modern look.
• Layers: The body-hugging, light shirt and a houndstooth coat create a breathable fabric and a warm garment (and the appearance of a wrinkled texture).
• Silhouette games: Wear jackets with cropped trousers, or go extra and wear oversized jackets that can be constricted around the waist to form a dynamic layering effect.
• Shoes and accessories: Depending on the shoes, keep the balance with minimalistic shoes, e.g., black loafers or white sneakers, and chose the bags in the matching solid colors.

Modern Uses of Houndstooth in Fashion

The legacy of Houndstooth in the fashion world has lived on into the contemporary world due to its affinity to change in different fashions and preferences.

• Dresses and Skirts: A purple houndstooth mini dress gives the impression of fun and formality, and a brown and black mottled wool pencil skirt gives the impression of classic professionalism.
• Pants and Trousers: Green and white slim-fit houndstooth pants are the best pants to add an extra interest to a plain work outfit.
• Accessories: Scarves, bags and even houndstooth face masks are smaller items that can contribute to the introduction of the pattern in a subtle way.
• Color Innovation: Designers have introduced more colors than the traditional black and white, and they are using color to introduce a new touch to the same pattern.

Final Thoughts: Why Houndstooth Remains a Fashion Icon

The houndstooth pattern is a timeless sophistication with modern flexibility, which makes it so popular. Having roots in Scotland, this unique pattern has left its imprint throughout the generations, in both rustic wool clothing and catwalks of high-fashion due to its daring, checkered finesse and versatility with respect to color and size.
Houndstooth is still deemed to be the sign of good taste and innovativeness, be it in the form of a black-and-white wool jacket or a sophisticated accessory.

Suzhou Yanmao Textile Technology Co., Ltd. is also part of this heritage due to its high quality houndstooth fabrics that are customized to fit the current needs. By using a balance of classic weaving craftsmanship and a new, environmentally-friendly production, Yanmao makes sure that designers and brands can get textiles that maintain quality, performance, and the traditional beauty of this old pattern.